Aujourd’hui, immergée dans la beauté de ma belle Toscane, je pense à un autre pays, le Maroc, pays des caftans.
Et mes souvenirs vont direct vers l’Oriental Fashion Show
Je me trouve actuellement à Villa Montecatini, à Nocchi sur les collines de Camaiore. Je vous parlerai bientôt, dans la rubrique mes voyages, de cet endroit magique et silencieux que j’ai choisi car j’ai besoin de paix et de beauté pour rédiger l’article que je suis en train d’écrire, celui de la jeune styliste Manale Dinar, rencontrée à Paris dans un autre endroit historique : La Coupole.
Je profite de cette petite pause Italienne, entourée de l’amour de ma famille et de la beauté de la Toscane, la région où je suis née, pour me ressourcer de la fatigue des derniers mois passés à Paris.
Beauté et calme, c’est également cela que dégage cette jeune femme de talent. Ses créations ne sont que la projection de sa douceur de vivre.
J’ai découvert le travail de Manale Dinar au dernier défilé de l’Oriental Fashion Show de juillet à Paris et suis restée éblouie par le travail, la recherche et la créativité de cette jeune styliste de 25 ans, très respectueuse de la tradition de son pays, le Maroc.
Elle récupère la coupe traditionnelle des caftans marocains pour donner vie à une femme dont la sensualité est suggérée avec classe, sans jamais tomber dans l’exagération. Tout est équilibre parfait entre matières nobles, riches broderies, luxueuses finitions.
Habillée de soie brodée de fil d’or, La femme de Manale Dinar est la princesse mystérieuse d’un monde où l’homme ne peut rentrer qu’en silence, pour l’admirer et rêver d’elle.
Manale commence ses études au Maroc, dans le marketing et le management puis, trois ans après, intègre une école de stylisme, pour s’épanouir dans sa vraie passion : La Mode !
Elle y a appris la création Européenne et a ensuite fait des formations et des stages dans des entreprises très variées, de la chaussure à l’ameublement de luxe. Ce parcours lui a aussi permis de s’imprégner de la beauté et du savoir-faire de son pays et de développer sa propre conception de la mode femme à travers ses magnifiques caftans…
Qu’est- ce qui vous inspire de votre pays ?
« Les couleurs. Les couleurs qu’on a au Maroc, c’est notre tradition. On ne trouve pas de tonalités pareilles ailleurs. Des couleurs flamboyantes liées à des codes bien précis. Le vert est par exemple la couleur de la mariée et le blanc aussi. »
Votre dernière collection est imprégnée de la beauté du Maroc, mais est-ce qu’il a aussi une autre inspiration ?
« La couleur de mes caftans doit être adaptée au teint de ma cliente, je pars de ce concept dans ma création, car souvent je réalise sur mesure. Confort, style et créativité viennent tout de suite après. Les codes qui marquent ma collection sont tout d’abord l’élégance et l’innovation.”
“Je me suis inspirée, pour cette collection, de la nature, on trouve les couleurs des fleurs autant dans les tissus que dans les broderies. La recherche, le look- book sont bien évidemment très importants, il faut être dans l’esprit du moment, comprendre et capter les tendances, sans oublier sa propre culture, tradition et son style. J’aime pimenter mes tenues avec une touche d’originalité et le mix de couleurs pâles et chatoyantes. »
(Voici le mood book d ‘ inspiration et comment l’ a transposé dans sa nouvelle collection:
Et les choix de matières ?
« Je choisis mes tissus à Paris, Dubaï, à Istanbul ou au Maroc où on trouve des matières extraordinaires aussi bien dans la qualité que dans le rendu. Je choisis mes matières par rapport à mon inspiration et mes croquis, mais ils restent riches et somptueux car ma femme doit se sentir comme une princesse. »
Comment est organisé votre atelier ?
« Dans mon atelier travaillent des artisans experts dans la coupe et la confection de caftans. Je fais aussi appel à des maîtres artisans de la broderie traditionnelle marocaine, les « ZWAK IMAALEM ».
Ces artisans, qui au Maroc sont des hommes, réalisent ce type de broderie très raffinée. Il y a beaucoup de travail, jusqu’à six mois. Il est réalisé avec du fil doré ou argenté et on utilise un aiguille très fine, dans ma dernière collection on peut voir ce type de broderies. »
Dans un univers difficile comme celui de la mode, ce n’est pas évident pour une jeune créatrice de se faire connaître, comment organisez-vous votre communication ?
« Je cherche tout simplement des gens susceptibles d’être intéressé par mon travail. Je me présente avec mes croquis et mon book. J’ai déjà une clientèle fidèle, des privés surtout, qui aiment mes créations et qui demandent des pièces uniques. J’ai bien sûr un site internet et une Chargée de communication, mais, mes créations vont pour le moment vers une clientèle de luxe attachée à la tradition Marocaine. »
Quels sont vos endroits préférés au Maroc ?
« Oh, beaucoup ! Je vous inviterai la prochaine fois, on se verra au Maroc, pour vous montrer… Il y a beaucoup d’endroits ! Mes endroits préférés sont Ouarzazate (kasbah Ait Ben Haddou), Chaouen et Marrakech. »
Et Paris vous inspire aussi ?
« Notre dame. J’adore l’architecture… Le mystère de comment elle a été construite, je reste éblouie et c’est une émotion qui se renouvelle à chaque fois que je la visite, c’est le savoir-faire Français, je pense que c’est l’architecture de Paris qui m’inspire le plus. »
Vous pensez faire une collection inspirée de Paris un jour ?
« Je rêve de conjuguer la beauté de l’architecture de Paris avec les couleurs de mes caftans. J’ai envie de faire un shooting à Paris avec mes caftans, peut être en automne… »
Comment êtes-vous arrivée à l’Oriental Fashion Show ?
« J’ai déposé un dossier avec mes croquis et j’ai été sélectionnée. Je suis très contente du résultat, car ça m’a permis de rentrer en contact avec d’autres gens, des nouveaux clients aussi. Vous savez, ça fait un an à peine que j’ai fini l’école et cette opportunité est très importante pour ma carrière. »
Dans mes articles, j’aime parler de la personne qui est derrière la styliste ou la créatrice, qu’est-ce qu’on peut dire de vous ? Quels sont vos loisirs ?
« Je suis quelqu’un qui aime la tranquillité et les endroits calmes. J’aime lire, écouter de la musique, j’adore Céline Dion ou une musique plus mélodique et douce, surtout quand je crée. »
Quels sont les difficultés rencontrées dans ton métier (on commence à se tutoyer J ) ?
« Pendant les années à l’école, c’était surtout le stress. Maintenant je gère mieux ce là car je suis à mon compte et puis, on s’y fait avec le temps et l’expérience. »
Bon ! Ne pensons pas au stress… Quel est ton plat préféré ?
« La pastilla au poisson, trop trop bon ! Quand tu viendras me voir au Maroc, on ira ensemble dans un restaurant de bord de mer qui fait ça (rire) ! »
Voici un lien vers un blog avec une recette de ce plat delicieux:
Pour voir l’ensemble du défilé :
https://fr.fashionnetwork.com/galeries/photos/Manale-Dinar,26342.html
Nous parlons encore une heure de nos prochaines vacances, de l’Italie, de la Toscane, de Venise et les verres de Burano, de Mariano Fortuny, d’actualité et de politique… J’ai rencontré plus qu’une styliste, une jeune femme qui aime les beautés de la vie plus que tout et que je serai ravie de la rencontrer à nouveau !
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